Of course we had to stay in a Kibbutz. We chose the Kibbutz (Ma’agan) Eden on the Sea of Galilee. The founding members of the Kibutz originated mainly from the ranks of the Zionist Youth Movement. Within the movement they received theoretical and agricultural instruction before making Aliyah (Immigration to Israel) as young pioneers. The very first arrived on the eve of the outbreak of WW II between 1938 and 1939.
The political theorist A.D. Gordon believed that physical work would create a link between the settlers and their new land. A group of 12 Russian idealists established the first kibbutz at the southern end of the Sea of Galilee (near where we are staying). Fired by a vision of a new Socialist era, they believed that what they were doing would be imitated throughout the world.
In fact, the communal structure of the kibbutz owed more to the pressing need to solve problems that to socialist ideology. The inhospitable terrain of rocky hills, marshes and mosquito-breeding swamps had to be cleared. In order to achieve this, and to deal with disease and protect themselves from unfriendly neighbors, they pooled their resources and relied upon each other.
Like most of the 260 Kibbutzim in Israel, Ma’agan Eden was based on communal principles:
Common ownership of lands and houses.
Equal budget to each family.
Full support for the elderly and disabled members.
Direct democracy – members were involved in decision making.
Important institutions in the kibbutz are children houses, laundry, the cultural center with museum and a laundry.
During the early 60’s, Ma’agan Eden came under repeated bombardment from Syrian guns perched on the Golan Heights. The children slept many nights in underground shelters. Those shelters are still evident throughout the kibutz.
Today, Eden has about 120 members. The children live in the children’s houses during the day until the first grade when they attend local schools. The adults developed the Holiday Village hotel with 150 rooms with recreation areas, a swimming pool and a dining room – all contributing to Eden’s annual income. Today, most of the members work outside the village.
We enjoyed it here until our computer charger blew out, due to a lack of electrical grounding. Our romanticized view of this way of life is mostly gone – not because of our computer.
On the way to Jerusalem we stopped in Belvoir National Park. Another Cruasader fortress. However, in 1200, they were able to defend themselves against the Muslim forces headed by Saladin for 1-1/2 years. In the 18th century an Arab village was established and then won by the Israelis in 1948. The remaining walls of the original fortress sits in splendid isolation and the panoramic view adds to understanding the strength of this stronghold.
Once inside, after crossing the moat on a bridge where the drawbridge sat, we unexpectedly found ourselves in a fortress within a fortress, a scaled-down replica of the outer defenses. We looked out the secret back doors of this medieval castle and spied on a pair of Griffon vultures that nest on the cliffs. This is one of the sites protecting these majestic birds from the inadvertent poisoning from the fields below.
We then stopped at Old Gesher, a site with a moving story. For years it had been a place of strategic importance on the Syrian-African Rift. In April 1948, this was the first settlement to withstand an attack by the Arab Legion. In May, it was also the focal point of an Iraqi attack. On site, three old bridges are visible, as well as an old British police station, historic railway tracks, and an old Khan (inn) from the Middle Ages. The latest addition is a fully functional reconstruction of the old power plant.
The settlement of 120 people was under attack and 50 children were holed-up in a 115 square foot bunker for 30 hours until they were eventually evacuated in the stealth of night. Initially, they walked for four hours to a nearby settlement and were later taken to safety to an abandoned monastery in Haifa. Ultimately the original settlement of Gesher was destroyed.
Perhaps this story highlights the development of the Israeli Defense Force (IDF). Their mission is to defend the existence, territorial integrity and sovereignty of the State of Israel; to protect the citizens of Israel; and to combat all forces of terrorism that threaten daily life.
The IDF is a citizen’s army and the draft is a significant factor in Israeli life. With few exceptions, all Israeli men and women are required to serve in the army, for 3 years for men and 2 years for women. After completion of military service a man is obliged to carry out reserve duty for a number of weeks every year until the age of forty-one. Women are barred from active combat, but make excellent instructors. The daughter of one of our new Israeli friends just completed her service as a head tank instructor.
The IDF states it is an army with a civilized philosophy, based on its military heritage and the traditions of the State of Israel – its democratic principles, laws and institutions, the traditions of the Jewish people throughout their history, and, most importantly, moral values that affirm the value and dignity of human life.
Although it was uncomfortable to tour with these young men and women, seemingly tossing machine guns on their back as if it were a light-weight backpack or purse, an understanding of what this means to them helped us to accept their way of life for them. On completion of their duty, most love to share their year of travel following their term of service and prior to entering a university.
