The Hill of Spring – Tel Aviv. Our first stop in Israel is a sophisticated, metropolitan city with nine miles of coastline along the Meditteranean. It is called the White City, not because all the buildings are white, which they are, but because of the Bauhaus influence of the early architecture – which is white. (Mike explained that the Bauhaus style emphasized simplicity and egalitarianism. There are over 4000 Bauhaus-style buildings with flat roofs, unadorned exteriors, bands of windows, smooth surfaces and -- white.)
On our first day we walked through the Carmel Market, the Yeminite neighborhood and Negev Tzedak (narrow winding streets with old homes mixed with charming boutiques and cafes). We continued around an area emphasizing many of the renovated Bauhaus homes and galleries and shopping districts. Tel Aviv is very walk-able with 20 foot wide sidewalks on either side of four-lane boulevards.
We sorta realized this trip was different from many of the last five or six years when we were packing. This was similar to packing for a visit to New York rather than a third-world country barely surviving in poverty. And it is that easy. Tap water – good. More safe than any American city. Leave a bag on an outside seat while eating in a sidewalk café – no one is going to grab it. In fact, we saw one woman leave her phone and a few things on a table, go inside and order and then calmly return to her phone.
However, everyone told us it was a waste of our time to take a few Hebrew lessons. They said everyone here spoke English. Well, that is pretty true, though many people in small quiet places might not be fluent or confident of their skills. It would have been nice if we had studied more to feel a little more confident and friendly ourselves, plus to read signs, etc. So far, it is the only thing we would have changed.
For a little background, we came to Israel to visit a couple we met last year in the Galapagos. We all had a great time together and, when they invited us, we thought they had a great idea.
Our first night was Shabbot (Sabbath) dinner in their home with another couple we met in the Galapagos (Israeli friends of theirs that we met only slightly). The second couple picked us up at our hotel and drove us to several sites on our way to and from our host home. Everything we had heard about the Israelis embracing their visitors is true!
It was a fairly typical meal with three different salads. Every meal we have had here, whether in a sidewalk café or upscale restaurant has presented us with two or three different salads along with our meal. And, they are all fresh and delicious. Put your preconceptions of Jewish deli food out of your minds. Fresh home-made soups and not a matzoh ball in sight.
On the second day, our friends took us to a small hall for chamber music followed by a fabulous lunch next to the beautiful, modern Tel Aviv Art Museum. They dropped us off at the Jaffa port where we strolled down the beach and walked and toured some more. Tel Aviv on Saturday looks like many of our downtown areas on Sundays – quiet, but with parks filled with families and lovers.
